Charles Thrasher

Photographs of coastal Carolina.

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Whiskey on Chocowinity Creek

January 2, 2021 by Charles Thrasher Leave a Comment

January 2, 2021

Chocowinity Creek runs from Sidney Creek roughly parallel to the Norfolk-Southern Railroad tracks until it empties into the head of Chocowinity Bay, North Carolina. There are a few houses, a few old piers. Mostly the residents are blue heron, osprey, and wood ducks but in 1819 it was the site of a whiskey distillery.

North Carolina has a history of local liquor distilleries rooted in colonial times. It was one of the few ways a small farmer could earn cash and far more profitable than the corn raised to make corn liquor. There was no stigma attached, even Baptist ministers drank corn whiskey, and it wasn’t generally illegal until the Federal excise tax on liquor was enforced after the Civil War.

Farmhouse and pier, Chocowinity Creek, NC.

On 2 January 1819, William Blackledge advertised in the Newbern [sic] Sentinel the sale of a whiskey distillery on Chocowinity Creek. Two patent copper stills of 130 gallons each, pewter worms (the coiled pipe from the top of the still), and a copper boiler of about 160 gallons. Water was pumped directly from the creek to the still house.

Blackledge was a friend of John Gray Blount, arguably the most influential merchant in eastern North Carolina. He was a state senator and a councilor of state elected by the General Assembly every year from 1814 to 1827. A substantial man, a respectable man, and a whiskey distiller.

Distilling didn’t become moonshining until after the Civil War; even then, only if the Federal excise tax went unpaid. Since the onerous tax was imposed by the Federal government on the defeated Southern states, moonshining became an overtly political act. It was even called blockade liquor at the time, reminiscent of those who ran the blockade of Southern ports by the U.S. Navy during the Civil War.

Sunrise on Chocowinity Creek, NC.

Related Images:

Hardworn Refitting Bayboro Fishing Fleet Docked Refuge Sunrise, Chocowinity Bay Withered tree, Whichard's Beach

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: Chocowinity Bay, Chocowinity Creek, distillery, moonshine, North Carolina, whiskey

A Tree’s Knees

January 1, 2021 by Charles Thrasher Leave a Comment

January 1, 2021

There is only one tree with knees and no one knows why.

At the turn of the year, in the depth of winter, I’m kept by the cold from paddling on the rivers and sounds so I’ve occupied myself with learning more about the place where I live, especially the swamps of North Carolina. And there is nothing more distinctive in those swamps than the bald cypress.

Bald cypress with knees on the shore of Sidney Creek, NC.
Barnacled buttresses and knees of bald cypress along the shore of Sidney Creek, NC.

The cypress family—including the coast redwood and the giant sequoia—are inexpressibly old. They were growing on Pangea around 150 million years ago before the supercontinent broke up and distributed the trees globally. That is old.

But only one of them—the bald cypress—has knees. (Also, the pond cypress if you’re going to quibble but they’re so closely related you can’t casually tell them apart.)

Bald cypress with knees and Spanish moss, Sidney Creek, NC.

The bald cypress grows best in the soft muck of a swamp. In fact, places where they dominate the canopy are called cypress swamps. They thrive in environments where little else can compete. Their roots spread horizontally, like a spider’s web, before plunging vertically, providing leverage against the trunk being downed by a strong wind, but the knees are often thrust several feet above average high water.

Ruins of a wharf encompassed by knees of bald cypress, Sidney Creek, NC.
The ruins of an old pier encompassed by bald cypress knees, Sidney Creek, NC.

Biologists were once convinced that the knees helped aerate the roots in swamp water deprived of oxygen. It seemed a reasonable assumption until field experiments found there was no exchange of gases between the knees and the atmosphere. Cypress knees are also lacking the tissues—lenticels and aerenchyma—that plants use to move gases into their roots.

The alternate theory—that knees stiffen the roots and provide the tree with greater support—is belied by the fact that bald cypress growing in deep water don’t develop knees. Since the tree would seem to need as much support in deep water as shallow, this theory has no legs.

So, this unique feature of a unique tree remains an enigma to botanists and adds mystery to my admiration of swamps.

Rotting knee of a bald cypress used as an anchor, Sidney Creek, NC.
Rotting knee of a bald cypress used as an anchor, Sidney Creek, NC.

Related Images:

Hardworn Refitting Bayboro Fishing Fleet Docked Refuge Sunrise, Chocowinity Bay Withered tree, Whichard's Beach

Filed Under: North Carolina, Sidney Creek, Wetlands Tagged With: Bald Cypress, cypress knees, North Carolina, Pangea, Sidney Creek, swamps

The Third Mistake

December 30, 2020 by Charles Thrasher Leave a Comment

December 30, 2020

Recently, a body was found by a duck hunter on the shore of Croatan Sound. The authorities weren’t able to identify it on sight, but a kayaker went missing from Manns Harbor, 10 miles north, three weeks before. His name was Alexander Rush.

Years ago, when I was a professional sailor, I often heard it’s not the first or even the second mistake that kills you, but the third in a row. That may be allegorical, but it points to the fact that it’s a succession of mistakes that prove fatal, not an isolated decision.

Alexander Rush chose to go paddling alone. That’s a decision many of us make, including me, especially on flat water. It may not be a mistake but it is a risk, like hiking alone in the Sierra Nevada or sailing solo. If you get into trouble, there’s no one to help.

In the winter, the water temperature on Croatan Sound is usually in the 50s. Lately, it’s been as low as 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Falling into water that cold is a physical shock. It takes your breath away, strains your heart, and scrambles your coordination. It becomes difficult to think. I’m almost 70-years-old. My body doesn’t have the resilience of a 30-year-old but even youth isn’t a guarantee of survival. Alexander Rush was only 26-years-old.

I have a new kayak, an Oru Bay ST—a folding kayak—that I’m eager to get on the water. It’s a lot more sensitive to weight distribution than the gunboat I have been paddling; I’m more likely to capsize it than the old NuCanoe Frontier. That’s not a problem if the water is 70 degrees, or even 60, but when the temperature falls below 50, the body leaks heat like the surface of the moon.

I was planning on paddling alone on Milltail Creek on the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge—a body of water protected from the wind and hardly more than a stone’s throw from any shore—but then I read about the body washed ashore. Croatan Sound borders the Alligator River NWR. It made me think again.

I didn’t have any clothing appropriate for swimming in cold water. I was planning on wearing rain gear. Then I remembered the Rule of Three. Paddling alone was the first risk factor, paddling in winter without a dry suit ideally or a wetsuit minimally was the second. Capsizing in 50-degree water might be the third.

Alexander Rush was wearing a hoodie, sweatpants, and Crocs. He didn’t have a PFD to keep his head above water when the cold numbed his body. He probably never thought of the mounting risks when he launched his kayak from Manteo to go fishing. He probably never heard it’s the third mistake that kills.

Related Images:

Hardworn Refitting Bayboro Fishing Fleet Docked Refuge Roosting Scuttled

Filed Under: Kayaking, North Carolina Tagged With: Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge, cold water paddling, Croatan Sound, kayaking, Milltail Creek, North Carolina, NuCanoe Frontier, Oru Bay ST, risks, winter paddling

Hidden Life of Bald Cypress

December 24, 2020 by Charles Thrasher Leave a Comment

There is a mature bald cypress standing on the edge of Sydney Creek that I’ve passed many times. I don’t know its age. Such trees often live to 600 years. This one will likely die much sooner as the ocean rises and saltwater reaches its roots.

Bald cypress tree on Sydney Creek, North Carolina.

Bald cypress tree on Sydney Creek, North Carolina.

Salt, drawn through the roots, doesn’t allow osmosis to properly function. The salt solution is so dense it wicks water out of the tree’s tissues, killing it by dehydration. And if not killed by dehydration, too much salt interferes with the chemical processes that distribute nutrients throughout the tree and convert chemicals into sugars.

There are ghost forests along the edge of Pamlico Sound where stands of cypress and pine have been poisoned by intruding seawater. Like Neolithic stones, they are the memory of dead trees still standing. Their fate will likely visit the trees of Sydney Creek in my lifetime.

There’s always the danger that I’ll project my own sense of self upon the other, that I’ll see myself mirrored in the presence of the other. Science thinks that a sin. Maybe it’s a strength, instead.

Plant Intelligence

The idea of plants possessing intelligence—a different kind of intelligence—is gaining credibility. When attacked, trees have been documented communicating their distress by electrical pulses transmitted through their roots and across fungi networks. By the same means, trees have been known to feed other stricken trees and nurture saplings. In a German forest there is a stump from a tree felled 300 or 400 years earlier that is still alive, still showing green wood, fed by the roots of surrounding trees. It may be this act of altruism serves the purpose of thwarting competitors that might try to usurp the stump’s space but individual trees nearing their death have been known to bequeath a substantial amount of the carbon sequestered in their roots to other trees in their community. How to explain that?

How do we define the intelligence of another species when we’re not even sure of our own? Some biologists religiously restrict intelligence to animals, but Stepfano Manusco of the International Laboratory of Plant Neurobiology has a simpler definition. “Intelligence is the ability to solve problems.” By that definition, both plants and animals are intelligent.

What Manusco is looking for in plants is “a distributed sort of intelligence, as we see in the swarming of birds.”

In The Hidden Life of Trees biologist Peter Wohllbern wrote “Tree roots have sensitive brain-like structures that can distinguish whether other roots it encounters are one of its own roots, the roots of another species, or its own species.”

What are the possibilities of seeing and thinking without eyes or brain? What sense of self might be distributed across a network of roots and fungi? And how is time perceived by an individual whose life spans centuries?

The Oldest Tree

The average life of a bald cypress may reach 600 years but there are individual trees in North Carolina whose life is measured in millennia. One tree in the Three Sisters Swamp of the Black River is 2,624 years old, probably older. That tree was alive when Nebuchadnezzar sacked Solomon’s Temple and the Jews first dreamed of a messiah during their Babylonian captivity.

Bald cypress trees root deep in the water of Sydney Creek, North Carolina.

Bald cypress trees root deep in the water of Sydney Creek, North Carolina.

There is an even older tree on the opposite coast, a Great Basin bristlecone pine that has lived for 5,066 years. That tree was alive near the beginning of the Bronze Age when the standing stones of Newgrange were first raised.

Quantum mechanics has taught us that time is a biological construct, not an object separate from ourselves. Time and consciousness are inseparably entangled. What must time and consciousness seem to creatures whose years pass like our hours and centuries like years?

If trees are conscious, they must feel pain. Pain is adaptive. It indicates danger. Without it, a conscious being wouldn’t survive. But if a tree feels pain, if it isn’t simply a green machine, it presents us with a moral dilemma we are poorly prepared to answer.

Monica Gagliano, an evolutionary biologist who studies plant cognition, said something that lingers with me. “For me, a plant isn’t an object, it’s always a subject that is interacting with other subjects in the environment.” From object to subject is a profound step.

“The main realization for me wasn’t the fact that plants themselves must be something more than we give them credit for, but what if everything around us is much more than we give it credit for, whether it’s animal, plant, bacteria, whatever…”

Related Images:

Hardworn Refitting Bayboro Fishing Fleet Docked Refuge Sunrise, Chocowinity Bay Withered tree, Whichard's Beach

Filed Under: Sidney Creek Tagged With: Bald Cypress, Black River, bristlecone pine, ghost forests, Monica Gagliano, North Carolina, Pamlico Sound, Peter Wohllbern, plant intelligence, Sidney Creek, Stefano Manusco, Three Sisters Swamp

Oru Maiden Voyage

December 21, 2020 by Charles Thrasher 2 Comments

December 21, 2020

The temperature was 46 degrees Fahrenheit, a lowering sky and a wind 5-10 MPH from the north. Like all north winds, it had an edge brittle as broken glass. I was paddling up Chocowinity Bay to Sidney Creek, across to Chocowinity Creek, then back down the bay to Cypress Landing. It was the cockleshell’s maiden voyage.

I’ve paddled this route many times before but always in a NuCanoe Frontier, a hybrid kayak stable as a gunboat and almost as heavy. Hauling 76 pounds up the steep embankment to our house had become problematic for an old man. The cockleshell weighs only 28 pounds soaking wet.

Technically, it’s an Oru Bay ST but cockleshell fits. I bought it not only because it’s light but because it folds to the size of a suitcase. I needed something small to take on extended vacations. I can also haul it across steep embankments and punishing riprap that’s the only access to many of the blackwater rivers in North Carolina.

Boarding a cockleshell can be challenging first time. The Oru Bay ST.

Boarding a cockleshell can be challenging the first time…or any time. The Oru Bay ST.

The transition from gunboat to cockleshell was interesting. I swear I could dance a hornpipe on the deck of the Frontier without serious risk of upset. (To be honest, I don’t know how to dance.) The Oru is less forgiving. If your head gets out of alignment with your torso, you know immediately. It’s a remarkable training aid for aligning your body and sinking your chi.

I was a professional sailor for 15 years. I’ve sailed both of the U.S. continental coasts, one end to the other, and Hawaii to San Francisco several times. I thought I was a good boatman. I should have remembered that pride comes before a fall and a soaking follows arrogance.

Like flying an airplane, takeoff and landing are the troublesome moments. Getting in and out of the Oru required skills I hadn’t developed sailing boats across oceans. What resulted was the sort of physical comedy that made Charlie Chaplin famous.

Since my initial trial, the weather has been mean and unrelenting. Today was the first day it hasn’t been raining or blowing a gale so I struggled into my Frogg Toggs, neoprene booties, raincoat, and CO2 inflatable life vest to go for a casual paddle while my wife worried she would be left a widow. (She can’t imagine how I’ll ever get back into the kayak if I capsize.)

A folding kayak is still a novelty on the sounds and rivers of North Carolina. I expect I’ll have some explaining to do but today there was no one else on the water. I took a few pictures, not because I expect they’ll have any aesthetic value, just to prove I was there.

Sidney Creek, Chocowinity Bay, on a gloomy day in December.

Sidney Creek, Chocowinity Bay, on a gloomy day in December.

Related Images:

Hardworn Refitting Bayboro Fishing Fleet Docked Refuge Sunrise, Chocowinity Bay Withered tree, Whichard's Beach

Filed Under: Chocowinity Bay, Kayaking, North Carolina, Sidney Creek Tagged With: Chocowinity Bay, kayaking, North Carolina, Oru Bay ST, Sidney Creek

An Origami Kayak

December 14, 2020 by Charles Thrasher 1 Comment

December 14, 2020

As I grow old, I seem to have less interest in words than images. Words can easily mislead even the writer. Photographs seem more candid.

But not just any photograph. I’m drawn to landscapes and seascapes, compelled by water and sky and what occupies the thin line between them. And especially coastal wetlands and drowned forests and blackwater streams slackly wandering toward the sea.

I’ve spent a lot of time taking pictures of Sidney Creek. It’s only ¾ mile from the shore behind my house, a maze of sawgrass islands and riparian forests, a perimeter less than 3 miles encompassing only 3/10 of a square mile of surface area but it feels almost infinite. Those few dozen acres still belong to bald eagles and osprey, blue heron and box turtles, river otters and white-tailed deer.

The only way to explore Sidney Creek is by water. I have a wonderfully stable hybrid kayak, a 12-foot NuCanoe Frontier, but it weighs 76 pounds and takes a village to move. It’s impossible to lift alone and exhausting to cart even when fitted with stern wheels. So I purchased an origami kayak.

Oru Bay ST kayak compared to NuCanoe Frontier 12.

Despite the same length, the Oru Bay ST is half the width and a sixth the weight of the NuCanoe Frontier 12. The Frontier is stable as the battleship Missouri, however.

Origami is the Japanese art of folding paper into decorative shapes and figures. Oru’s application of the concept to a kayak was brilliant. Like an armadillo retreating into it’s shell, it collapses from 12-foot to the shape of a suitcase. And it weighs only 28 pounds. That’s slightly more than the average two-year-old toddler. Even I can carry a two-year-old under my arm without straining a bicep.

Oru Bay ST kayak

The ORU Bay St is made of translucent polypropylene and weighs only 28 pounds.

It is rather disconcerting paddling deep water in a cockle shell made of translucent polypropylene but the aerodynamics that keep a commercial jetliner aloft are equally impenetrable.

And an unexpected benefit—at night, with a flashlight inside the hull, it glows like a Japanese lantern.

The Oru Bay ST kayak lights up like a Japanese lantern.

The Oru Bay ST kayak lit like a Japanese lantern by a flashlight.

Filed Under: Kayaking, Sidney Creek Tagged With: kayak, NuCanoe Frontier 12, Oru Bay ST, Sidney Creek

Cypress Stump

November 25, 2020 by Charles Thrasher Leave a Comment

Chocowinity Bay, North Carolina

Bald cypress trees can grow old. In the Black River swamp of North Carolina, one bald cypress is estimated to be 2,628 years old. This tree, standing on the edge of Chocowinity Bay, didn’t survive that long before a summer thunderstorm raced across the bay. The downdraft from the storm struck the water and fanned out like a blast wave. It struck the old tree, long since dead but still standing, and snapped the trunk in half. The upper limbs now lay in the water beside it.

A breeding pair of osprey built their nest in the tree’s branches when it still stood. Year after year, each Spring they returned from wintering in the south and raised another generation. I have no idea how many young birds were fledged in that nest, waiting impatiently for their parents to return, watching the bay with their sharp eyes. I saw the last generation, boisterous, demanding to be fed.

Remnants of a bald cypress, shattered by a thunderstorm, on Chocowinity Bay, North Carolina.
Remnants of bald cypress, shattered by a thunderstorm, on Chocowinity Bay, North Carolina.

Prints of the image Cypress stump are available.

Related Images:

Hardworn Refitting Bayboro Fishing Fleet Docked Refuge Sunrise, Chocowinity Bay Withered tree, Whichard's Beach

Filed Under: Chocowinity Bay, Waterfront Tagged With: Bald Cypress, Chocowinity Bay, North Carolina, osprey

Disheveled

July 4, 2020 by Charles Thrasher Leave a Comment

Beaufort, NC

A small otter trawl in a low rent neighborhood of Beaufort Harbor. Fishermen aren’t known to be fastidious about their work but this one looks like it’s owned by Pigpen from the Charlie Brown cartoon strip.

To purchase this print, visit the Waterfront Gallery.

An otter trawler in the low-rent district of Beaufort Harbor.

Waterfront Gallery slideshow.

Drying out. Swan Quarter, NC Sky net. Swan Quarter, NC Rust. Swan Quarter, NC Lay day. Swan Quarter, NC Tradition. Swan Quarter, NC Dinah Jane. Swan Quarter, NC Predator. Swan Quarter, NC Making berth. Swan Quarter, NC Shifting berth. Swan Quarter, NC Rainbow. Swan Quarter, NC Addiction. Swan Quarter, NC Derelict. Cypress Landing, NC Just Right. Swan Quarter, NC Abreast.  Swan Quarter, NC Tired. Swan Quarter, NC Aloft. Oriental, NC Crab pot. Engelhard, NC Another day. Engelhard, NC Captain Mike. Engelhard, NC Awash. Engelhard, NC Splintered. Bayboro, NC Long dock. Bayboro, NC Retrofit. Bayboro, NC Stripped. Bayboro, NC Trestle. Pamlico River, NC Dolphin. Pamlico River, NC Abandoned. Pamlico River, NC Sequestered. Pamlico River, NC Expectant. Pamlico River, NC Havens Wharf. Washington, NC Havens Gristmill. Washington, NC Persistence. Pamlico River, NC Shadows. Pamlico River, NC Askew. Pamlico River, NC Subdued. Pamlico River, NC IMG_3860_p

Related Images:

Hardworn Refitting Bayboro Fishing Fleet Docked Refuge Roosting Scuttled

Filed Under: Beaufort Tagged With: art print, Beaufort, commercial fishing, fishing boats, harbor, North Carolina, otter trawler, waterfront

Subdued

June 29, 2020 by Charles Thrasher Leave a Comment

Pamlico River, NC

Subdued morning light beneath the Highway 17 Bridge, Pamlico River, NC. Bridge pilings stream a wake in the current. In the distance, sailboats at anchor, Castle Island, and the Moss Landing Marina.

To purchase this print, visit the Waterfront Gallery.

Subdued morning light beneath the Highway 17 Bridge over the Pamlico River, NC.

Waterfront Gallery slideshow.

Drying out. Swan Quarter, NC Sky net. Swan Quarter, NC Rust. Swan Quarter, NC Lay day. Swan Quarter, NC Tradition. Swan Quarter, NC Dinah Jane. Swan Quarter, NC Predator. Swan Quarter, NC Making berth. Swan Quarter, NC Shifting berth. Swan Quarter, NC Rainbow. Swan Quarter, NC Addiction. Swan Quarter, NC Derelict. Cypress Landing, NC Just Right. Swan Quarter, NC Abreast.  Swan Quarter, NC Tired. Swan Quarter, NC Aloft. Oriental, NC Crab pot. Engelhard, NC Another day. Engelhard, NC Captain Mike. Engelhard, NC Awash. Engelhard, NC Splintered. Bayboro, NC Long dock. Bayboro, NC Retrofit. Bayboro, NC Stripped. Bayboro, NC Trestle. Pamlico River, NC Dolphin. Pamlico River, NC Abandoned. Pamlico River, NC Sequestered. Pamlico River, NC Expectant. Pamlico River, NC Havens Wharf. Washington, NC Havens Gristmill. Washington, NC Persistence. Pamlico River, NC Shadows. Pamlico River, NC Askew. Pamlico River, NC Subdued. Pamlico River, NC IMG_3860_p

Related Images:

Hardworn Refitting Bayboro Fishing Fleet Docked Refuge Roosting Scuttled

Filed Under: Pamlico River, Waterfront Tagged With: anchorage, art print, Castle Island, Highway 17 Bridge, Moss Landing, North Carolina, Pamlico River, Washington, waterfront

Askew

June 27, 2020 by Charles Thrasher Leave a Comment

Pamlico River, NC

Pilings lashed together are called dolphins. Dolphins riddled with rot and bent by the current like old men are simply called debris. This dolphin in the Pamlico River opposite Washington, NC, once secured fuel barges and lumber schooners.

To purchase this print, visit the Waterfront Gallery.

A dolphin riddle with rot in the Pamlico River opposite Washington, NC.

Waterfront Gallery slideshow.

Drying out. Swan Quarter, NC Sky net. Swan Quarter, NC Rust. Swan Quarter, NC Lay day. Swan Quarter, NC Tradition. Swan Quarter, NC Dinah Jane. Swan Quarter, NC Predator. Swan Quarter, NC Making berth. Swan Quarter, NC Shifting berth. Swan Quarter, NC Rainbow. Swan Quarter, NC Addiction. Swan Quarter, NC Derelict. Cypress Landing, NC Just Right. Swan Quarter, NC Abreast.  Swan Quarter, NC Tired. Swan Quarter, NC Aloft. Oriental, NC Crab pot. Engelhard, NC Another day. Engelhard, NC Captain Mike. Engelhard, NC Awash. Engelhard, NC Splintered. Bayboro, NC Long dock. Bayboro, NC Retrofit. Bayboro, NC Stripped. Bayboro, NC Trestle. Pamlico River, NC Dolphin. Pamlico River, NC Abandoned. Pamlico River, NC Sequestered. Pamlico River, NC Expectant. Pamlico River, NC Havens Wharf. Washington, NC Havens Gristmill. Washington, NC Persistence. Pamlico River, NC Shadows. Pamlico River, NC Askew. Pamlico River, NC Subdued. Pamlico River, NC IMG_3860_p

Related Images:

Hardworn Refitting Bayboro Fishing Fleet Docked Refuge Roosting Scuttled

Filed Under: Pamlico River, Waterfront Tagged With: art print, dolphin, North Carolina, Pamlico River, Washington

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Recent Posts

  • Whiskey on Chocowinity Creek
  • A Tree’s Knees
  • The Third Mistake
  • Hidden Life of Bald Cypress
  • Oru Maiden Voyage
  • An Origami Kayak
  • Cypress Stump
  • Disheveled
  • Subdued
  • Askew
  • Shadows
  • Havens Wharf
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